Braga - Bom Jesus do Monte

As with most of my time in Europe this last March and April, most of my time in Porto was unstructured.  

I had spent nearly two months touring cathedrals in Spain, France, and Portugal - enough to last me a lifetime.  The sameness seemed repetitive, if familiar – given my Catholic upbringing.  But the similarity seemed less silly when I considered that, during the era when these were built, most people would likely see only one of them in their lifetime – if that.  So a modern tourist, who finds them only a short  flight, or TGV ride apart from each other, and tires after the third one in a week, is missing the point.  

Still, I generally was looking for more idiosyncratic attractions, so in Porto I sampled Port wine, and walked up and down the many hills that define the city.  

4/17/2025

When I was in Porto, Portugal a couple years ago, I took a day trip to Braga, about an hour north of Porto by train.  By then I had seen so many cathedrals that my interest was wanting.  But I had read about Bom Jesus do Monte, and the pictures looked lovely.  I decided to walk from the Braga train station, rather than decipher the bus schedule.  It's a four-and-a-half mile uphill walk to the bottom of the steps in this picture.  When I got to the top of the steps, I met the couple in the other picture.  They are Portuguese, but have lived in Philadelphia for a long time.  The cathedral had played a big part of their early relationship, fifty years ago, so they returned on their fiftieth anniversary.  
As with most Portuguese people, they were welcoming to me, and wanted to know all about me.  They are very faithful Catholics, and asked me if I was.  I said that I am not religious now, but having grown up Catholic, I still feel kinship to those who are.  They didn't try to convert me back, but showed me a kindness that felt like kinship.  They said that it meant a great deal to them to have met me on this special anniversary - which made me feel special to have shared those moments with them.  
I went up to the cathedral itself, and carefully opened the door.  A service was underway, which I didn't want to disturb in the least.  They began singing something that seemed so familiar.  Though the words were in Portuguese, I have known the melody my whole life.  I don't recall a name for it in the Catholic Church, but protestants call it Doxology ... 'Praise God from whom all Blessings Flow ...'  Though not a believer now, the familiarity of this musical prayer touched me.  
When I came back to the couple, they offered to drive me back to Braga.  I declined their offer, but with a very deep gratitude.  I felt buoyed on my walk back to town.  The entire experience at Bom Jesus do Monte, as with so many moments in Portugal lifted my spirits.  

For all who celebrate Semana Santa this week, whether with deep faithful conviction, or in the sense of renewal that comes to naturally this season, I wish you a Happy Easter season.